Papas in Pachacamac

Last Saturday, I ventured to Pachacamac with two coworkers, my Spanish teacher, Felix, and his girlfriend. Pachacamac lies approximately 30 km southeast of Lima in a coastal desert area. Approximately 1000 years before the Incas came ‘aconquerin, this archeological site was a place of worship and pilgrimage for those who paid homage to the ancient god of creation, Pacha Kamaq. When the Incas arrived, they made used the site for administrative functions, though they allowed the local priests to continue practicing independent of the Incan religion. While the site is no longer in use, one can still find remnants of palaces and pyramids build and renovated by the Waris and the Incans.

The first building we came to was a large U-shaped complex where the women of the ancient culture, the mamacunas, used to live and work. According to the wonderful translated sign, “mamacuna” means “one who makes the function of mother.” In addition to the teaching and religious functions carried out here, the site was used by the Incans for a purpose very different in nature. If you look at the building, you can see a series of openings on the second floor. This is where the Incans would display the young female virgins, which were to be chosen from by some powerful Incans men. Felix told us that if a non-Incan man wished to marry a woman, an Incan man first had to take her virginity. True conquistadores.

The second complex we came to was the Templo Del Sol, or Temple of the Sun, situated at the corner of the complex on a high bluff overlooking the Pacific. Being a sun worshipper myself, this was my favorite area of Pachacamac. The views from the top were splendid. Between the site and the sea were patches of dense green flora, nice long stretches of sandy beach, and even a bull fighting ring. The ancient peoples chose well when then picked this vantage for their sun worshipping.

Oh, and a word about the dogs of Pachacamac, I have never seen such creatures! They are grey and hairless little buddies, with skin much like elephants (I call them perros elefantes). They are small and sweet. Though they lack hair (pelo, in Spanish), they are heat generators: the local people cuddle up next to them at night, especially those with conditions like arthritis. I like these dogs. (I like most dogs). As evidenced here, the Peruvians love to put jackets on their dogs, which I find quite amusing since it’s more of a fashion statement than a necessity.

After the ruins, we drove another 15 minutes into the town of Pachacamac, to attend the first annual EcoGourmet Festival. While everything about this little festival was awesome (as organic food festivals with music and free samples is right up my alley =), the best were the huge displays of Peruvian potatoes. Did you know that 2008 is the year of the potato? Año de Papas indeed. Peru grows over 2,800 types of potatoes, more than any other country in the world. And they are quite proud of this. They even have an International Potato Center, the first of its kind. Impressive. All silliness aside, this organization is actually pretty neat. This is the first part of their mission statement:

“The International Potato Center (CIP) seeks to reduce poverty and achieve food security on a sustained basis in developing countries through scientific research and related activities on potato, sweet potato, and other root and tuber crops and on the improved management of natural resources in the Andes and other mountain areas.”

In addition to potatoes, the festival boasted fine local cheeses, jams made from fruits I’ve never met before, delicious chocolate and nut candies (um, this little piggy ate six!), yogurts, fresh breads, veggies, herbs, pisco (the national liquor), and more. Needless to say, I enjoyed my time wandering around this little festival. I also got to practice buying things using my incipient Spanish skills. I think I did alright, but boy do I have so much more to learn! All in all, a fine morning soaking in the Peruvian culture!