NEW BLOG

Eeks...I feel like a cheater...

Dear blogspot: I am sorry blogger, you have been really great to me all these months, but I feel like I need to grow and you just cant give me the space I need anymore....

hahahah, I have switched over to wordpress because it lets me make more than one page on my blog and this is exciting. So now my words of the day, my random peru thoughts and my posts have enough space to play...and am still working out the details of this new system and trying to figure out a cool way to present my photos...but all the posts you see here are also present there. Hooray to change and growth and new beginnings!

PLEASE FOLLOW ME HERE: www.jaimeinperu.wordpress.com

Thanks!

Representin'

Rachel came across this BBC clip this morning of Peruvian shamen performing a ceremony to encourage the success of their desired US Presidential candidate. Its interesting...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/us_elections_2008/7699066.stm

A good weekend...

At the risk of producing a post that borders on the diary genre, I thought I’d provide a quick recap of my last couple of days, since my weekend was so enjoyable and since it’s been a while since I provided a peak into my current daily life.
This weekend began with a trip to my favorite restaurant in San Isidro with some of my very favorite people in Lima, Clara, Jaime (Hi-may), Mariane, and Henry. At this little soiree, where we enjoyed delicious food and drink, I was finally properly introduced to the French owner, Philippe, who coincidentally happens to be a friend of Jaime’s (coincidence abounds with my friend Jaime…unless we are talking aceitunas or beaches, about which we have opposite opinions). Aided by a pisco and copa de vino tinto, I proudly told Philippe in Spanish that his restaurant is my favorite in all of Lima and promised to be more explicit in my mention of his restaurant on my blog. So here it is:

Owned by frenchie Philippe and his gorgeous Peruvian wife, Chez Philippe is a fine Limeño restaurant proudly offering a wide array of European beers, wines from South America and Europe, crepes, salads, carne, fish, pizzas, flammenkutche, and more to satisfy and stimulate the palate. This cozy restaurant, which is equally affordable and adorable, is located at Avenida 2 de Mayo 748, in San Isidro, Lima, Peru. Their web address is: www.chez-philippe.net. If you come here, go there. And so ends my pitch. (Maybe it will earn me a free pisco???)

Back to my weekend… After this wonderful evening, I woke Saturday and taught another kettlebell session. This was my first class facing four athletic men, some exceptionally and anomalously tall, each of which looked at me with curiosity as if thinking, “What is this strange little white chick going to offer me by way of fitness?” I did my damndest to kick their butts (whilst invariably kicking my own :). There is something satisfying and empowering about awing, engrossing, and inspiring people through kettlebells. Jaime, who owns the gym, always tells me how proud he is of me when I teach and how excited my students get about my classes. This makes me proud and delighted indeed. I know I will look back fondly on my bizarre happenstance of teaching here. Perhaps it will even open up some opportunities in the future and I will pursue the (expensive) certification necessary to teach in the US.

After resting up a bit from this big morning of work, my new friend Carlyn arrived into town. Carlyn is headed on a month’s adventure in Cusco, where she’s going to live with a family and study Spanish. Becoming acquainted through a friend in San Diego (thanks Heather!), Carlyn and I got on well from the start (she rocks!). We took a great stroll on a sunny afternoon by the cliffs and, after what turned out to be quite a long walk (anyone who knows me should not be surprised in the least that the first thing I did with my new friend was take her on a long walk, haha), we settled into another of my very favorite restaurants in Lima (I promise I do more than eat here!).

Alfrescos is one of the tastiest spots to grab some fancy seafood, which, for the quality and presentation, can be enjoyed at about a third of the cost of any similar restaurant in the US. Anyhow, I mention this not only because it is another tasty recommendation for the comida- inclined visitors and residents of Peru, but also because I finally tried CEVICHE! Yes, it took me four whole months to gutz up enough to try this raw seafood delicacy. It was deliciously spicy and didn’t make me hurl! Hooray! Great success! I think I will be having it again soon. Now I understand what all these Limeños are on about! I am so thankful that I live in the purported culinary capital of South America.


All food fascinations aside, I also spent much of the weekend walking (said food off ;). At about noon on Sunday, after chatting with my parents and Luke (who arrives in one week, I am so excited!), the sun burned away the grey and bathed everything in warm spring air. I had to get myself outside. I took a wander over to Barranco, the nearby coastal neighborhood known for its Bohemian eccentricities and its night clubs. I had such a joyous day just exploring. The sun made the ocean glow, the parks were green and teeming with blossoming flowers of every color, it was relatively quiet along the Malecon, and it was just a beautiful day to be alive. I could feel my heart expanding beyond the sometimes constricted state in which I find myself when I get overwhelmed by the daily travails of big city life. It made me smile.

I am grateful for these nourishing moments.

Pumpkin Carving in Peru

In honor of a cultural holiday enjoyed by both Peruvians and estados unidensians (thats US folks in a strange jaime version of spanish), Rachel, Evan, Clara and I carved pumpkins last weekend. It was a joyous event indeed. Here are some photos.






hahahahahahah...

Belated Birthday Pic

I figured I should post at least one...
This is my new pal Toño, who was passing through town to visit Rachel during a blitz of South America, yours truly, and Rachel after a tower of beer and a strong pisco but before the dancing commenced....

Truncated Time In Lima

After many ruminations on life and my experience here in Lima, I have decided to truncate my time here and not return to Lima following the December holidays. After having made this decision and set my plans in motion, I feel I have made a wise decision for myself and am very much looking forward to the coming months. I have about a month left at my bizarrely questionable job, but in this time I am taking two trips within Peru: another trip back to Machu Picchu (but this time via a proper trek through the Sacred Valley) and a 3-day hiking trip in the Andes.

In December, I am heading on a 3-week trip through Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazzu Falls (at 9,000 feet wide, this is one of the top ten biggest falls in the world), a number of little cities in Uruguay (who would have thought this trip would take me to Bolivia and Uruguay?), and into Brazil to a couple of incredible beaches including those in Rio. I will finally see the sun! Unbelievably excited I am.
And equally excited I am to reunite with all my friends and family upon my return. This Christmas is going to be the best yet.

As for the future…well it is unclear. If it were up to me, I would travel for another 6 months. I pine for travel more than I do any person, possession, or purpose in life right now. It’s all I want to do in the coming months (much to the dismay and displeasure of my parents, who wish for me to grow roots immediately). And though I fear sounding like a spoiled brat with all these jaunts about, I assure any suspicious reader that I am working my little butt off here just trying to make this happen.

I am hoping to land enough freelance gigs to make continued travel a reality. My fingers are crossed and my ears are open. I recognize how blessed I am to be able to pursue my passions like this. I don't think I'll ever be the kind of person that, upon looking back at life, will ever say “I wish I would have…” or “If only...” Life is far too short to put off what you love (or who you love, for that matter) for some far off day. I am grateful and blessed. That’s about all I can say about that.

Sweet

I just booked a ticket to PARADISE. More to follow....

A banal little update

I haven't written lately because there is not much to report on from this little spot on the globe. But I am tired of the Palin rant living at the top of my blog so I had to write something. haha
Plans are in the works (which are subject to change hourly it seems) and travel will recommence in November with a proper trek to Machu Picchu, a hiking trip in Huaraz (over the crazy world summit weekend in Lima), and then...something bigger. Update to follow.
My Spanish lessons are going great. My teacher warms my heart with his kindness and funny stories. He makes me feel confident and excited about learning Spanish. Hooray for good teachers!
I have been working like a mad little lady recently, 3 jobs 7 days a week. But it is worth it for the travels to come. I am thankful I have 3 jobs when some people have 0 and am grateful that I away from the sad state of the US economy and accompanying national panic, though it is strange to be disconnected and I worry for my family and friends. (that was a long sentence, forgive me I am sleepy and a bit sick right now). I hope that everyone is doing okay despite this domestic turmoil. A woman in the elevator the other day asked where I was from and when I told her, she replied with a look of pity-shock and said "Oh muchas problemas, lo siento" Yowswers.
Well that is all for now. I will try to go on some crazy adventure soon and report back with something more exciting.

An American Moment: VP Debate

2 October 2008

VP Viewing in a Peruvian Bar
Tonight, after 9 hours of work (during which I wrestled with how to account for 25 centuries of Roman history in a few easy-to-read web pages about art) and nearly two hours of Spanish lessons, I hustled over to a local bar where my friends and I discovered the US Vice Presidential Debates were airing. This being the first and only time Palin and Biden would meet face to face to debate on matters of the utmost importance to the future of United States politics (and, really, so much more), I knew that it was an important night to witness.

Entering the local sports bar, I found the place packed to capacity. Every TV was ready to air the debate. As most bars are, this place was crowded and noisy. But, phenomenally, the entire place hushed as the debate began. I can’t remember ever being in a bar so hushed by something on TV. Not even the Superbowl. People gathered here with the sole purpose of listening to this debate. It is something powerful and telling to witness this here. I take this as evidence of just how important people feel this particular election is to the fate of our nation.

So the debate began.

Not a single person that I saw in that bar seemed to be in favor of Palin. In fact, people were there from the Obama camp, signing ex-pats up on mailing lists and getting them emergency ballots and voting information. The entire crowd of people was virtually silent throughout the entire event, save for bursts of applause in response to Biden's poignant remarks. In response to Palin's meaningless jumble, I saw looks of horror spread across the faces of some people, while others were busy taking shots everytime Palin said something stupid. They had trouble even stumbling out of the bar by the end of the debate.

I can't help but think this experience in Peru is evidence of something really important happening in the US. This bar was filled with backpackers and expats, people who might have easily forgone this debate for a travel adventure or perhaps not found it worth the trouble to seek out a place where the debates would be aired live. It would be easy to forget, being so far from home, what was going on in US politics. But all of these people made a point to remember and made a point to watch it. Not only that but they truly watched and listened intently to the debate. In a bar, where people's attention spans usually dont last as long as their cocktails. People were truly engaged. From a nation so historically apathetic when it comes to politics, this unlikely meeting of passionate Americans indicates to me that we are in the midst of serious change in our country.

One can only hope that this change is for the good, and the torch is not passed to another team that will only continue to burn the fine institution of America to the ground.

Kettlebells Continues

I continue to teach kettlebells here in Peru. My friend Jaime just opened his official gym here, called CrossFit Peru. I admire his enthusiasm, drive, and determination in following his passion of getting this gym started and spreading functional fitness to Peru. I am proud to be able to be a part of it! Here is a link to his write up about my work at the gym. Oh, and "Yeimi" is the phonetic spelling of my name according to Peruvians!

http://crossfitperu.com/2008/09/28/yeimi-dio-una-clase-de-kettlebells-en-crossfit-peru/

Mold Mayhem and Malaria Meds

PREFACE: I wrote this a few weeks ago and it was meant to be a personal venting I didnt plan to share here. But I think I would be doing a disservice to myself and my readers to only sugar coat my experiences here and pretend that everything is always perfect. As expected, this trip has presented its challenges, which are often manageable but at times gets a bit overwhelming. What follows flowed forth during an overwhelming moment. So it goes. This place will make me stronger.

9/20/08

Aptly, one line from an Eminem song keeps swimming through my head this afternoon: “and when your run is over just admit when its at its end.” On more challenging days like this, I can’t help but think that maybe my strange affair with Lima is reaching its end.

This place is bad for my health. My lungs burn from the pounds of pollution hurled at me over the past few months. They ache with attempted rejection of the mold that has opportunistically claimed my bedroom. My legs are restless from sitting in one place for 10 hours a day. I can’t help but worry that this place is adding years to my looks while taking a few off my life.

My stuff is ruined. The fungus triumphs. The brown strap of my nicest dress looks mottled from mold. My cute black ballet shoes are green with fungus. My handmade bag, adorned with patches from all the places I’ve been in Europe, was barely recognizable when I pulled it reluctantly from the closet today. All the furniture in my room is covered in mold, including my bed, where I’ve had fits of night sweats and spent restless hours trying to sleep in damp danky darkness. Last week I had to throw out a moldy pillow I slept on for weeks before realizing its condition. My ceiling is covered in some sordid spawning species. I can’t live like this.

This is made worse by the side effects of my malaria medicine, which I have been on now for almost a month. It has done a number on my stomach and my lips, strangely enough. Yikes!

This city is dirty, damp, dangerous and donkey grey. I feel assaulted each day as I wade through black clouds of smoke and try to ignore the multitude of blaring horns. I can taste poison on my lips as I make my way home each night cursing these streets. On some days, my friends wouldn’t recognize me if they saw me walking down the streets because they’ve likely never seen this look of disgust-stress-sadness and tension on my face.

Furthermore, I am also learning that I am just not a city girl (or at least not this city). I am so so much more at peace in a smaller town. Or in a forest. Or really any place where I can connect with nature and have a moment of peace. Here, I feel like a rat in a cage, one of way too many clawing towards the top to get a gasp of air. It stresses me out to be here. It de-centers me. It makes a negative person out of someone who is not negative by nature. It wears me out.

But all of this is tempered (and complicated) by the good that I am experiencing. I am slowly but surely learning a new language, one that may open many doors for me in the future. I am meeting awesome people at every turn. I am witnessing life and everything is fresh (except the air, haha). I am by no means stagnant in my outlook on life. I am learning more about myself each day. I am pursuing my bliss to the best of my ability. I am taking chances and wander out of my comfort zone at every chance I get. My times of travel—the whole reason for this crazy adventure—are amazing and rejuvenating. They are the reason I came here and the reason I am still here.

But the times in between are trying, as I am just not built for this kind of city life. So I am torn between upholding a commitment and high tailing it out of here to pursue that which I know is better for me.

Whilst in the rainforest area of Puerto Maldonado this last week, I felt extremely creative and generative, new ideas springing up daily. I want to write. I am feeling more dedicated to it than ever. I want to write this book about my travels. I want to spend a year in Spanish-speaking countries (I have expanded my travel dreams to include a few months in Argentina and a few in Spain) and write a book called Spanish Lessons.

I want to write a children’s book about the animals of the rainforest. A zoological/conservation tale in which the poor animals I saw kept in horrid conditions in Puerto Maldonado are set free by their own ingenuity. Because I can’t set them free in real life and the only way I can justify going to see what I saw is to write about it.

Furthermore, I want to actually put some effort into becoming a published travel writer. I think I might actually have it in me. I think I might actually have something to say that others might actually want to read.

I also know that I want to go back to teaching when all of these adventures are over. I love the college learning environment and I love teaching in it. I have been thinking of my students and miss the work I used to do. I think it is the only job I’ve ever had that I have actually felt passionate about. I miss it. I love the lifestyle, I love the way it makes me feel, I love how it stimulates my creativity and passion, and I love having the ability to interact with students on an intellectual level and to get them engaged in their education. Being back in an 8 to 6 reminds me of why I left it to pursue my masters and reaffirms the reasons I wanted to be a professor.

And other ideas have been coming forth. I keep mulling over the prospect of getting some sort of travel excursion company together in California. Right now it is so expensive to travel there as a young person and virtually impossible to backpack it. I keep thinking it would be neat to set up a company that enables backpackers to travel around affordably. To share with other people the amazing places in my own home.

And I want to live in a place where blue-skied days outnumber the grey, where I can call up and walk over to see my dear friends, where I can live in a mold-free home and walk down the street without swallowing smog, where I can be mellow and healthy. And travel. As far as living in a big dirty city and sitting in front of a computer for at least 10 hours a day...well this is not so much for me. However, I greatly appreciate the opportunities this job has enabled me to have. I have been able to travel here and experience Peru in a way I never would have been able to otherwise. I am so grateful for these gifts, about which I will carry fond memories for the rest of my life. I am immensely thankful for all of these things.

Impressions of a Peruvian Rainforest

The dark side of an illuminating locale....



While I was fortunate to be immersed in the sights and sounds of one of the most beautiful natural habitats on the planet, I couldn't help but note many many tragedies afoot. The local people here cannot eat from the river, on which blobs of bright orange pollution float, because of the unsafe mercury levels. Mercury is pumped into the Madre Del Dios by the opportunistic gold miners laboring along the river side.
The marvels of our first morning wander down the river were tempered by the thick smoke of a burning rainforest and the sound of chainsaws sealing the deal. While I fight to bite my tongue in responding to something I can't possibly understand fully, my visceral reaction was (and is) unstoppable. The deforestation here is jaw-dropping. The pollution is horrid. The way they treat their animals angers me, as I understand through past studies just how close so many of these species are to extinction.
Our guide told us stories of how they hunt the primates here (not to mention numerous other species). He continued with morbid details of how they must retrieve their kill. Because most primates here have prehensile tails, they cling to branches even after death. To collect them, hunters often take to cutting down the trees on which they cling. This is horrid tale is one of the saddest I've heard in a while.

Forgive my drama, I feel quite strongly about these things. A visit to the local zoo at the very end of our trip would have had me in tears if I hadn't been in total shock. Most of the animals seen in this entry live meters from their natural habitat in meager cages abutting a noisy cement block building operation. I wanted to free them. Since I can't, I have promised myself to write a book about them.

I hesitated on this trip (and still do) to jump to any conclusions about the implications of human activity on this natural, and rapidly dwindling, habitat. All I can say is the human footprint is stomping out much of what seems so vital to the preservation and continued existence of this rainforest. Seeing the difference between this place and the forests I saw in Costa Rica, this novice can see clearly the world of difference effective conservation makes. I hope (and feel compelled to help) Peru reverse this fast track to total annihilation of one of the most important resources on our planet.

Okay my rant is through.




Yes, that is a rope tightly tied to his hind legs.












Wild cotton grows all over this area. I cant help but wonder if cultivating wild cotton might be part of an effective conservation solution, providing an alternative means of income to locals who might otherwise pursue activities deleterious to the land.

-------------------------------------
Near the entrance of the Tambopata reserve, a German-based NGO has set up a little display about conservation of the rainforest. It is quite lovely and informative. I found one display board particularly beautiful. The following "letter," posted in both Spanish and English, is intended to remind visitors how nature should be appreciated.

From the post:

Dear Friend,

Pardon my confidence in speaking to you as a friend, but from the moment that you were born, you became part of my Being and I consider you as such.

Maybe you have never heard me speaking to you. The truth is, I have spent a lot of time speaking to people about how little they take care of me, that sometimes I think I do not have a voice, or only some have heard me.

Today, my heart is happy for your visit. Not only do I want you to see my, but I also want to share my secrets and reveal all the beauty and goodness that I have in myself. I understand that sometimes you can be enchanted with something that I have, but even so, I ask you not to take it. If you do that, it is as if you are killing me bit by bit and the truth is, this makes me suffer more than you can imagine.

Like you, the animals, the plants, the space, and even the air you breathe form a part of me. I offer you this with all my humility, so that they also form a part of your life experience. Respect them, as you respect yourself. Enjoy them, as one enjoys being alive. Embrace them, as one embraces loved ones. Love them, as one loves oneself.

I only want to thank you for forming part of my life and hopefully, at the end of your visit, you will be satisfied for having discovered a little more of the beauty that life offers us everyday.

With affection and offering you all of myself,

MOTHER NATURE

Departure Day from Puerto Maldonado

This was one of many peaceful sights I came upon on an early morning solo hike near our lodge. While the forest is filled with the busy early morning sounds of insects and animals millions strong, it is the most quiet place you can dream of. Quiet, in the sense of fostering complete peace and tranquility in the listener. The best kind of quiet in my opinion.


A titi monkey in the tree. S/he and a buddy were the only two wild monkeys I saw on this trip. I was excited about seeing these buddies, as I had not yet seen this species before in the wild. Something about their body types reminds me of Haile (my cat). haha.

Hiking Camino Al Aguajal

Early verdant views on the Camino Al Aguajal Hike. (Aguajal is the name of the palm tree seen throughout this walk)


Another early morning view on the hike.


This face-like arboreal visage is really a tumor on a giant jungle tree.


According to local legend, touching this bulbous tree adornment while pregnant can result in birth defects. Though the local women are still convinced, there is no scientific evidence that anything about this bulb would result in birth defects.


Though not its official title, this Snake Tree is called the Gringo Tree, so named because its bark resembles the peeling skin of a gringo with a sunburn. So say Freddie our guide.


One of many amazing glimpses caught on the Loboyoc Creek wander.

Parrot Clay Lick and Lake Sandoval

Early morning sights from the boat as we headed to the Parrot clay lick.


Though a bit tough to capture on camera (these guys just move sooo fast!), this is a brown throated three-toed sloth.


The beginnings of a massive parrot reunion. They come by the hundreds to clay licks like this each morning. Eating clay coats their stomachs (protecting them from the toxins in their food) and provides nutritious minerals that do a parrot body good.


The beginning of our hike.


A little lizard buddy, hiding in the underbrush.


Look close, those walking cuts of leaf are being diligently transported by leaf cutter ants.


While the forest around Puerto Maldonado isn't known for its flowers, this is a beautiful image of the flora we passed on our morning trek.


A cluster of small yellow and black butterflies.


The Owl Butterfly


Quite a beauty.


I like the juxtaposition here between the brown muted tones of the forest floor and the brilliant illuminating glow of the butterfly's wings. (can you tell I am studying the ways of art lingo???)


On the first leg of our 12km hike. A gangsta looking mama and her happy daughter.


Jaime of the Jungle


A crew of turtles lined up creekside as we traversed the small creek opening onto the Lake.


Entering onto Lago Sandoval


A view from Lake Sandoval.


Look closely, and you can see a line up of bats on the tree.


This little guy is one of the many spectacular birds we saw on the shadowy banks of Sandoval.


Heading back from our paddle on the serene, though sweltering, Lago Sandoval, we were welcomed by this little sight-- a turtle showing of the latest fashion: butterfly head wear.


At the end of a long day's hiking: Laura (our friend from Arequipa, Peru), Jaime, and a tuckered but triumphant Christine (my mama).

Rainforest Arrival: Puerto Maldonado

My mama on the boat crossing the Madre Del Dios River from Puerto Maldonado to the small area where resides our little hotel, the Estancia Bello Horizonte.


The rainforest driveway heading into the secluded Estancia.


View from the grass just in front of our little bungalow, taken after peaceful and much missed moments of meditation.


Little Diego heading towards his human mama at Estancia Bello. The story goes that Diego, a young red howler monkey, was orphaned and then adopted by a human mama named Sol.


Diego cuddled with Sol.